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Chris 

Apr-28-2004 23:37

Dear Tileman, Thank you for your time and dedication to this site. You are a true professional. Anyway, I came home tonight and said "Oh, #@%&!" my wife spilled some citrus juice on our absolute black granite countertop and we cannot get it out. It is has if the juice is IN the stone. Please don't tell me it is ruined. What do I do?

Dear CHRIS:

Of course, this is a natural staone and we are a ceramic tile Q&A site; however, since you are so polite and seeing as I am VP for a leading natural stone quarrier, fabricator, distributor... it is something with which I have a passing familiarity. LOL Okay, natural granite is not impervious. Sure, it has much of the same composition materials as a ceramic tile, not suggesting that ceramic tile is invincible or inviolable, such as quartz, feldspars, pigmenting minerals, etc. but no one said it could not be harmed. Acids are as unacceptable for natural stones as they are for ceramic tiles. There is some chemical resistance, but mostly short-term. That is why sealers and coatings are employed for protecting natural stone, to act as quick sacrificial barriers while the spills are removed. Granite has natural fissures that accept penetration and polished surfces are unforgiving when chemically compromised. You need to have this repolished... there are repolishing kits on the market.... these have a couple of fine grit creams and a polishing pad. It can be done by hand with a few minutes of elbow grease.... not literally. GOTO: www.brightstn.com/marrefkit.html

bill 

Apr-28-2004 13:31

has anyone ever had any sucess with insulayment made by quiet walk-i am installing ceramic tile over a concrete floor-i thought of using it to warm the floor in the winter

Dear BILL:

This is for laminate flooring nd as a carpet padding, not as a ceramic tile underlayment. www.ouachitalumber.com/underlayment.html If you want warm floors... www.warmfloorcenter.com

Chris Yates 

Apr-28-2004 09:58

Tileman, thanks for answering my question from April 19 about putting self leveling compound directly over plank flooring. I'm taking your advice as we speak and laying all new plywood. My only remaining question is why is the hardibacker board required? If the plywood subfloor is strong enought to prevent deflection, and if I will be laying self leveling compound over all of the hardibacker board anyway, I don't see the need. I'm also trying to keep the height of the floor as low as possible to meet a wood floor at the threshold.

Dear CHRIS YATES:

There is some confusion... I never said that you needed to use self-leveling compound. Also, the Hardibacker board (CBU) is not required if you have adequate composition... 1-1/4" wood sub-floor... sufficient to eliminate unacceptable deflection. Many people suggest to use the CBU because it is the recommended bondable cementitious surface... ideal for ceramic tile applications - i.e. rigid, sound, flat, cementitious, etc. Also, you mention above, something about self-leveling compound over all the Hardibacker Board???? I agree... what is the need? To keep the height of the floor down, use exterior grade plywood overtop of your planking and then an epoxy mortar and grout combination.

Chad 

Apr-28-2004 00:18

I have installed 1/4" hardi-backer cement board to my existing floor using thinset and 1 1/4" screws every 8 inches. The floor now appears to be slightly wavy. I believe it was from overtightening some of the screws. My question is how to recover from this, can I put a self-leveling mortar over the cement board to fill in the dips?

Dear CHAD:

Okay, something sounds incorrect. Firstly, cement board doesn't bend without some really weird conditions. Did you have the proper recommended exterior grade sheet plywood as your sub-floor for the 1/4" cement backer unit (CBU)? What is your substrate composition? If you were putting 1/4" cement board overtop of planking, it is NOT acceptable, nor recommended by the manufacturer... as if unacceptable and incorrect wasn't enough.

tracy 

Apr-27-2004 13:57

I am going to be tiling a kitchen/hall area with 13x13 inch tiles. Off of the kitchen is a small half bath that I'm also tiling with 13x13 inch tiles, but a different color. I don't believe I'll be able to have full tiles on the kitchen side of the door, what is the best way to transition? My husband says we should use a decorative tile transition, yet that would be the only place we'd need to and I think it will look funny. How is this generally done?

Dear TRACY:

Creating aesthetic transitions vary and depend on your taste and other finishes in your home. Here are some suggestions. Use a wood such as oak for the threshold transition or marble. Schluter also makes beautiful chrome or brass tile transition strips for doorways that can finish each side of the tile transition. You may want to turn the bath tile on the diagonal starting with a full half diamond cut butting into the kitchen cut tile. Or you could match the size of the cut on the kitchen side with the identical cut on the bath side and then continue with full tile. Or as your husband suggests run a strip of decorative tile to form the threshold. Using something irregular like a cut river rock border is effective and saves you finding a decorative tile exactly the right size. My final idea is to do a transition in the "Gaudi" style. You could be quite creative with this. Gaudi used broken tile pieces to create "trencadis" or mosaic like installations. You could break-up a few pieces of the kitchen color and the bath color and mix these to form the perfect compliment to both rooms. Hope one of these ideas works for you. paddy

Merry 

Apr-27-2004 13:31

Hello, I am remodeling an old bathroom/laundry room on the 2nd floor and wanting to put in a ceramic tile floor. I want to know if a professional laid ceramic tile floor will withstand the vibrations from a washing machine's spin cycle that would be in that room? Plans are to mortar down the ceramic under layer(I forgot the term of it) and then adhesive on the ceramic tile, grout and seal. It is a fairly strong vibration. About how much impact can a ceramic tile take? Thanks Merry

Dear MERRY:

Yes it can. The under layer should be cement board and make sure the adhesive is mortar and not pre-mixed mastic for your floors. My laundry room is tile and it performs like a dream. By the way, the vibration in a washing machine is normally caused when the machine is out of level. Make sure you level the floor if necessary with self-levelling mortar and check the adjustment on the feet of your machine. Place a spirit level on top of the machine to get it right. paddy

Janice H 

Apr-27-2004 13:04

We are installing ceramic tile over a basement floor (concrete) which is over 40 years old. There was carpet glued down on the concrete which we took up and cleaned off the excess glue left behind. Now we have discovered that the concrete floor has several holes in it which are 2 inches in diameter and a quarter inch deep. The qestion we have is basically what do we do with the holes, if anything, to ensure that the tiles we will be installing stay down. Also there are some depressions around one quarter inch deep causing the floor to be not completely level. Can we put alittle more mortar in these areas to make the tiled floor level?

Dear JANICE H:

To do this correctly, you should apply a self-levelling mortar across the entire floor. It is quite easy and will fill the holes and float across the floor finding true level. It can feather out to almost nothing or fill in the swells and valleys. paddy

Uneven grout color 

Apr-27-2004 12:42

Hi Paddy, Referring to your answer to my question to 7025, you mentioned "Still the best alternative would be an overall wash of the same grout colour to help pigmentize (made up a new word) the joints," I wonder if you are referring to acid wash or you are referring to recoloring using either grout colorant or grout stain. In case, if I were to go for one of the coloring option, may I ask which one (stain or colorant) would provide a more natural grout look and not like as if it has been painted on. Also , I wonder which one option (stain or colorant) is more stain resistant. Regarding grout shading, I have no problem with minor shade variation. The problem I have with my existing grout color is it varies from sandy color to almost antique white within a few inches. Thanks again for your help in my very disturbing and agonizing problems.

Dear UNEVEN GROUT COLOR:

Hi it's paddy, one of the other Tileman suggested the overall wash. I assume what was meant was actually to mix up a batch of your original grout (making sure you mix enough in one batch to do the entire area) and float this at a 45degree angle across the surface of all joints. This will work if the grout is slightly recessed and no sealer has been used yet. Let it set up for 15-25min. and then polish off the cement residue from the surface of the tile until it gleams. If you still want to re-color the joint I would have to say that grout colorant (epoxy based) is the only option that will give you an even color and provide high stain resistance. Others have mixed a stain into a silicone based sealer and if you do this make sure to test in an inconspicuous area first. The problem is the staining agent will react differently on each shade and although you'll achieve a different color, you may still have variation. The sealer also does not provide the level of resistance an epoxy gives and the sealer needs re-application down the road. paddy

Maria 

Apr-27-2004 11:26

Hi, I am renovating an existing fireplace that is made of river rock which has been painted. I want to put ceramic tile over the painted river rock. The fire box is quite deep and I want to extend the ceramic tile back into the depth of the fire box for about 10" . (When a fire is burning in the deep fire place, this front area that I want to return the tile into does not get terribly hot. You can touch this portion of the wall with your hand and not get burned. The real fire box is deeper in the chimney space. ) The questions are..... Is there a special mortar for high heat areas? Will the mortar adhere to a painted surface? Thanks, Maria

Dear MARIA:

Mortar will not adhere to the painted surface. You need to strip the paint. Tiling in the firebox is not a problem. Tile is fired at 900 to 1200 degrees C. A standard cement mortar should be fine but I would ask the specific manufacturer of the product which mortar they would recommend. Almost all major manuf. have web-sites. paddy

Natalie 

Apr-27-2004 09:40

I building a new home and when the tile was installed they did not remove the baseboard and now the builder wants to install quarter-round moulding. Was this the proper installation techique? Or was it just poor management and messy technique?

Dear NATALIE:

Not only is it messy it is lazy. Up to you but I'd have him remove the baseboard and the last row of tile and do it right. However, likely the re-installation will give you mis-matched dye lots and grout. The quarter round may be the best solution at this point. But the builder should be ashamed. paddy

Alan 

Apr-27-2004 08:04

Where can I find two replacement ceramic tiles for my bathroom counter? They are either 2 1/8 or 2 3/16 square in solid gloss black. Thanks

Dear ALAN:

Use the message board or go out and look at retailers.

Barbara   

Apr-27-2004 03:23

We just had a ceramic floor laid in our kitchen. Where the kitchen and formal dining room floors meet there is a 1/4" height difference. There is also a 1/2" space between where the tile ends and the crossboard to the hardwood floor begins. Can I just finish this area with a thin line of grout? I really don't like the look of a transition piece. Is the 1/4" height difference between floors acceptable or is a transiition piece required?

Dear BARBARA:

Really, a transition piece is necessary.

D. Barger 

Apr-26-2004 23:06

In prep for ceramic tile in our kitchen we glued and screwed 3/4 exterior plywood over the existing 3/4 (actual measurement) pine subfloor. We laid some tiles with recommended mortar. The next day we discovered the plywood had absorbed moisture from the mortar. Because the ply swelled and heaved, we pulled the rest of the tile and cleaned them. Is there a way to re-install over the ply? Maybe a waterproof membrane of some kind. I ask this because adding a layer of cement board will raise the floor level to about an inch higher than the ajoining rooms. And - is there a premixed mortar available? Thanks so much for this forum. Deb

Dear D. BARGER:

You may want to prime the floor with an acrylic primer, before adhering the tiles with a polymer-enhance thin-set (thin-bed) mortar. No... do not use premixed... other than dry powder components in a bag that you just add water to use. Not ready-to-use from abucket or pail... this is not for floors.

John 

Apr-26-2004 22:31

This question is regarding 6981. I was hoping if you could tell me what order you should install the mosaic with your tile. Do you first install tile and then the mosaic or is it the other way around. I figured it would be a good idea to first place the mosaic where you wanted it to go and then mark the perimeter location. Then you would cut the surrounding tile to this mark minus 1/16", and then install the tile on the ground. Finally you would install the mosaic level with this surrounding tile. It is surely wonderfull to have help like this around. I really do hope you know how much I appreciate this. John

Dear JOHN:

You are correct.... the mosaic is placed first and then the tile. If there is a variation in thickness, you proceed first with placement of the thinner mosaic, later adhering with height adjustment.... the height adjustment, if necessary, can be done with mortar or a self-leveling compound. Of course, if the mosaic is thicker than the tile, it would require feathering mortar or self-leveling compound away from the mosaic perimeter, allowing for a gradual transition.

Alex 

Apr-26-2004 21:47

Hello Tileman, We are redoing our bathroom. We are getting an undermount tub, and we want to tile the top with travertine. What do you need to do to the edges, that is the edges on the inside of the tub. I've been told that you need to polish them, and cut them in a curve to match the tub shape. Also, I've been told that because travertine has fissures you will need to fill the fissures on the cut edges. Can you just take me through the process? We thought we would do a deck surround made from a template and cut from a solid piece (perhaps in 2 or 4 pieces), but this is proving to be very costly. So, now we're just thinking of tiling, and I was just curious about the process. Thanks so much, Alex

Dear ALEX:

It is very possible to accomplish this. Although this is the CERAMIC TILE site I'll give you what I know. You will have to layout the travertine tile and create a template exactly as you would have for the slab. Transfer this onto each tile that abuts the tub. Carving the travertine is not simple and requires a diamond wet saw. You can attempt this or take the tile to a marble finisher and have him cut each tile following the curve of your tub. Again you can have a marble finisher polish smooth and fill the edges or you can attempt this. Travertine is fairly soft and to polish the edges you will need to patiently use a marble honing tool to smooth the cut and take the hard saw cut edge off. To achieve a polish requires using progressively finer grits of an appropriate sanding medium for marble. This process is not difficult just a little time consuming. Filling any exposed fissures is easy with either an epoxy grout (which is what I would recommend or a cementitious standard grout. I would do this before I installed the tile and prior to the polishing. The marble material will be much less expensive than slab marble, the cutting at a marble finisher should also be less expensive because it will not take as much time due to the thickness and you can save money by installing it yourself if you're up to the task. One hint to consider is to build up the edge of the deck by cutting duplicate pieces of all perimeter tile and literally laminating the two pieces of travertine together. The pieces underneath need only be about 4" in width. Fill the rest of the deck with a CBU board. In this way you will achieve the thickness of a 3/4" slab. Hope your curiousity has been answered. Welcome paddy

Holly 51 

Apr-26-2004 20:22

My shower was tiled with ceramic tile with a box set of tiles with 6colors of varigated type glaze, I was disappointed when I saw what bullnose tile they used on the front frame- it looks like some type of dot matrix print. Every piece is exactly the same. What is the process? Is it a glaze or a printed on picture. It definately detracts from the beautiful tile work. The tile man said "Oh well, this is the bull nose that is available for that tile" My other question would be can tile be grouted together at a 90' angle without using bullnose in a way to cover up the raw cut surface. thanks (Sorry if this is a repeat I tried numerous times to do a search without a response.)

Dear HOLLY 51:

Thanks for trying to use the search and your question is unique enough that likely no answer would have been informative. You now know the importance of comparing field tile with available trim tile. Very often the trim tile is unacceptably different from the field. There are several reasons. Flat tile is made using one production method and often profiled trim tile uses another in order to acquire the unique shape. Many manufacturers don't even make their own trim tile simply because the production required is different, it is time consuming and they are not specialist in this type of manufacturing. So trim tile is often supplied by a specialty manufacturer. Obviously the field and trim are not glazed together on the same line, nor fired in the kiln at the same time. The trim tile requires different timing and temperatures because of it's shape and dimension. Glazing a curved format is also more problematic as the screening process requires a flat surface. Most screen prints on either flat or trim tile is achieved with the use of silk or screen printing and depending on the dpi can be visible or next to invisible. You shouldn't be able to see the screen from let's say 2ft., which is normal viewing distance from a wall. Yes, if you hold it up to your nose, most screens can be detected but few people using your shower will do this so please don't use that as a test. However, if you can detect the screen from normal distances away then I would judge it as a low tech or poorly done screen. The time to discover this is when you select your tile after seeing both the field tile and the trim you're buying. Like anything else there are quality manufacturers and the others. Also in some cases it is impossible even for quality manufacturers to absolutely match field tile to the trim tile when a specific field tile look is desirable. They match the design as closely as possible and expect you to accept or reject the tile during the selection process. Your last question about creating a 45 degree mitre on the back of the tile and butting this two pieces together to form an outside corner is possible and done. You do not achieve a totally seamless joint as some of the tile body must be left for strength. Using a silicone caulking down this joint color matched to the tile is required. Also this greatly reduces the strength of the tile so if you bang the wall with any force, you will likely break the tile. Hope this helped paddy

greg 

Apr-26-2004 17:56

Hello Tileman, I am installing 1/2" cement backerboard for my shower walls but there seems to be gaps between them because the walls and not plumb. Instead of cutting small, thin pieces of backerboard to fill in the gaps, is there another compound I can use for these gaps? Thanks for your help

Dear GREG:

Yes the gaps (if not too large) can be filled with thinset mortar and some board manufacturers recommend to tape the seams with mesh. Check out the recommendation on your board. Do not use mastic or pre-mix ceramic adhesive to fill the gaps. Use a cementitious thinset. Welcome. paddy

Steve - N. Cal 

Apr-26-2004 17:19

Tileman, I am building an outdoor kitchen/BBQ countertop. I would like to put a tile countertop on cinder block base walls. Weather is 110F with full sun in summer, 35-55F and rainy all winter. I would like to avoid using any plywood substrate--in this area, termites will eat anything that is made of wood (even PT, after a while). I have reviewed #6775, which states plywood substrate is required underneath CBU for countertops, but no mention is made of plywood in #2192. What are some ways that I can support a countertop without wood? Can I support the CBU with a frame of steel angle or U-channel? Use a double layer of CBU on a frame? Thank you in advance...Steve

Dear STEVE - N. CAL:

If we could eliminate wood sub-structures from every ceramic application in wet or exterior areas, we certainly would. Even in dry areas, the moisture content of our mortars can adversely effect the underlying wood. So, building your BBQ counter without the use of wood is not only preferred but brilliant. I see your problem as not having a solid surface on which to set your counter tile. Suggestions. 1.Could you not install the final course of cinder block on it's side giving you the solid cement base for tile. Use cinder cuts in the center in order to have a finished cinder edge at the perimeter. 2.Install a final course of paving tile on top of the cinder block form to give you a solid backing or finally as you suggest build a steel frame to accept a CBU for the tile backing. I love "alfresco kitchens" Good luck with this beautiful project. Make sure to purchase low absorptive tile for the countertop and seal the grout joints. paddy

Tim McLaughlin 

Apr-26-2004 15:33

What is the best material for an exterior expansion joint for laying porcelain tile over a concrete slab? I laid this tile 2 years ago without an expansion joint and it has failed on one end of the porch. I am going to relay the tiles and don't want a repeat. I now know I need expansion joints and am planning them every 12' at 3/8", but what should it be made of? I don't want it to leak. Also, I used an additive[recommended to me by the supplier] to give flexibility to the bond, this is located where we have freeze and thaw. I have my doubts about the additive and am not inclined to use it again. I laid some tile sections without it and they remain bonded well. Any thoughts? What is the best product to use for the installation of the porcelain tiles over the concrete slab? The slab is on metal plating supported by steel eyebeams, there is a room below this and I am trying to keep it as water tight as possible.

Dear TIM MCLAUGHLIN:

Tim what a worrisome group of questions especially because at the very end you say this porch is over a living area below. You should be following the same logic as you would if you were installing a roof. I would strongly suggest that you do a few things before proceeding because the issues here are several and dramatic. First contact the Tile Council of America and get a copy of the 2004 Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installation. Go to literature@tileusa.com or write technical@tileusa.com if you want to confirm the points I'm making. In this concise handbook you'll find complete details on appropriate expansion and movement joints. Listed are the materials (closed-cell foam polyethylene, butyl rubber, or open cell and closed cell polyurethane, to be used as a backup strip along with proper sealants such as silicone, urethane, and polysulfide.) and the installation instructions. Your second comment that gives me pause is that you don't want these expansion joints to "leak". Your "roof porch" should be detailed according to TCA detail F103-03 and include a waterproof roof deck membrane. Next is your questions regarding the mortar additive. In most cases mortar manufacturers will not guarantee exterior work without the use of a high grade polymer additive used full strength without the addition of any mixing water. However, in some instances depending on the dimension, water absorption percentage and surface finish of your porcelain tile combined with the type of waterproof membrane you select, the mortar manufacturer will look at this combination and specify one of a number of specialty mortars that they are sure will be successful. Ceramic tiling involves the entire system: from the type of substrate (cement slab in your case) up through each layer of the installation ending with the tile. The variables I listed above IMPACT very heavily on the membranes and mortars that should be used. Without knowing a lot more about your roof porch, the type of room below, and many other details, I cannot simply tell you which materials and methods would be successful. paddy

Uneven grout color 

Apr-26-2004 13:23

Hi Paddy, Referring to your answers to #6986, I have one more question after I sent the last one to you. You think that using diluted surflamic solution or CLR would have little effect to even out my grout color variation. I do have some stone/marble accent pieces which are in the form of 4 inch x 12 inch. Per your suggestion, do you think it is viable to tape off the stone pieces before cleaning with surflamic acid? The grouts on my accent piece seem to have relatively little variation and so I think I can leave them alone. Since you already mentioned that even regrouting the entire shower walls and counter tops might not guarantee even shade results, I would appreciate it if you could share your opinion with me if the acid wash would be able to alleviate a bit the color variation. Would the acid make the grouts more porous and hence more vulnerable to staining? Thanks.

Dear UNEVEN GROUT COLOR:

Acid is not a solution... no pun intended. Yes, it would have little affect. Areas that would be white would become whiter and those with more colour would still vary. Yes, the joints would become more porous and vulnerable to staining. Still the best alternative would be an overall wash of the same grout colour to help pigmentize (made up a new word) the joints. Shading is really an inherent characterisitic of coloured cementitious grout.

Uneven grout color 

Apr-26-2004 12:31

Hi Paddy, Thanks for answering my quesions on 6986. Is your CLR the same as surflamic acid that I mentioned? Thanks.

Dear UNEVEN GROUT COLOR:

The basic ingredients for the CLR are not 'SULFAMIC' acid... it is comprised of 'Phosphoric' and 'Glycolic' Acids ... Check out their 'Material Safety Data Sheets' for yourself... http://msds.ogden.disa.mil/msds/owa/web_msds.display?imsdsnr=182243 .....The percentages are sufficiently high to make this is a maintenance product, NOT a regular cleaning product.

Mary Porter 

Apr-26-2004 01:34

I am thinking of tiling my house. In one of the research I read about tile classification. What is the difference between ceramic tiles of class BIIb and BIIa? Is one class of better quality against the other?

Dear MARY PORTER:

It is not simple to answer this question with a short answer. Before I describe tile classification it is necessary for you Mary to do the following. First list all the areas in your home that you intend on tiling. Seperate floor areas from wall areas and interior dry areas from interior wet areas, and finally isolate any exterior areas. Example: Kitchen floor, Entry floor, Bath floor (dry), Shower floor (wet), Outside porch floor. Second step is to list beside each individual area the following: how many people will use the area (light, medium or heavy traffic) residentially almost every area is either light or medium traffic however there is a difference between a master ensuite (only used by Mom & Dad) and a kitchen used by all the children, Mom & Dad, the family dog and cat, and Saturday nite's weekly bridge club. You get the idea. Next is to list expected footwear the floor will be exposed to again using light, medium and heavy. Consider light to be bedroom slipper or bare feet (in your Ensuite bath) all the way to heavy (Dad's golf cleats) on the back door entry. The final assessment should list the type of anticipated soiling or dirt, (I know this might be boring) but is it light, medium or heavy gritty dirt. Dustbunny's (light) in the Ensuite bathroom, or (heavy) salt residue, garden soil, sand etc that will potentially be tracked onto the front entry of your home. Once you have this list composed, you are now ready to look at and evaluate tile by it's classification. The first and most important thing to understand is that the industry manufacturers and classifies tile according to its area of intended use. ALL CLASSIFICATIONS ARE QUALITY TILE. One class designates tile meant for light duty, another class designates tile for medium duty and yet another for heavy traffic and soiling. Therefore, a class 2 tile (for light duty) is not a lower quality than a class 3 tile, just a tile made for a distinctly different use. We do this for value. To offer the greatest range of colors, textures, surface finish (gloss to matt) and price range, the industry makes use specific tiles. When you require a lighter duty tile let's say a class 2 tile, you will find literally a million choices in every color, size, finish and price range. You can only realize this benefit if you've made the list I detailed above. In a light duty room a class 2 tile will literally last for 40 years however if you try to put a class 2 tile in a heavy duty area, it will only last for a few years. Mary I did tell you that the answer wasn't simple, but I hope you're still with me. Finally, let's talk about the classification itself. The system you are asking about is the European rating system. I'd have to write you a book to cover it all completely but let's try a simplified version. Tile is classed either A or B. This designates the production method only and again has nothing to do with quality. All tile made by the extrusion method is A. All tile made by the dust pressed method is B. Under these two labels each tile is further classified according to its apparent water absorption percentage. Keeping it simple the scale goes from lowest absorption to highest absorption percentage and assigns additional letters to define each level. Although I could quote you each one for the European Standard and then the American standard, the Canadian standard and so on, it is much more understandable to talk only about the water absorption percentage across the board. The industry uses water absorption to indicate the density of tile. The denser the tile, is a good indication of its compressive strength. Low absorption is capable of a progressively higher loading strength or amount of traffic. In other words the lowest absorption rating 0-0.5% WA (water absorption) will allow vehicular traffic over it without crushing whereas, the highest WA over 10% WA is designed for wall use only and will not likely withstand even light traffic. We don't need wall tile to be capable of bearing a load, so we don't design it for that. The high absorption rate is actually a benefit for wall tile as it helps the tile to securely stick to a vertical surface, it is lighter, it is more cost efficient (lower price to you) easier to install etc. etc. So Mary you need to consult with a qualified trained ceramic sales person at your nearest retailer and take the list you've compiled and select your tile according to your intended use using each tile's WA percentage as a guide. Tile with absorption between 0-0.5% Heaviest traffic, exterior area (for frost resistance), interior wet or submerged areas (shower floors). Next range is above 0.5% to 3% this tile can be used in all the areas above except for exterior submerged areas (like swimming pools, fountains) and interior submerged areas. Therefore, up to 3% WA will give you frost resistance and is suitable for heavy loading but only our lowest WA tile is recommended for tile that sits in water. The next classification range is tile with above 3 to 6%WA. This range indicates tile for interior dry areas suitable for almost any expected level of residential loading (even the grand piano) I would likely select a tile in the 3-4% range for my laundry room (in case of flooding from the washer) the same range for a heavily used kitchen and a tile up to the highest end 6% for hallways, bedrooms, dens, sun and family room. Tile in the range 6% to 10% is very light duty floor tile (ensuite bath with Mom & Dad use only) and the final range WA above 10% is for wall use only. I hope you can see that because there is a range in all levels it follows that tile in the low end of the range is denser than tile in the same range but at the upper limit of designated WA. Basically, WA deals with the compressive strength of the tile body. Therefore, this standard or guideline does not deal with the surface abrasion resistance of a glazed tile. The standard for that is noted on a tile data sheet as PEI (Porcelain Enamel Institute test) Again the range does not indicate quality, it relates solely to intended areas of use. PEI 0-1 should only be used on walls (the glaze will scratch with even limited foot traffic) PEI 2 should be used in light duty areas, regular footwear, and light non-gritty soiling, PEI 3-4 can be used anywhere in a residential application and PEI 5 is designed for abusive commercial scratching, golf shoes, and gritty salty highly abrasive soiling. Too much info Mary? Sorry but so many consumers don't understand how to successfully select tile and it is a pity. A beautiful high absorptive tile of 8% with a glossy black PEI 2 glaze is made for using in my luxurious bathroom floor and will give me 40 years of wear using it as it was intended with bare feet, slippered feet and nothing more than dust bunnies for soiling. If I try to put the same tile in my hall, because I've fallen in love with the texture and the color matches my decor perfectly and the sales person has never been trained to understand how the industry designs specific "use" tile and tells me that because it is a floor tile, it will definetly work or doesn't understand the mechanical role WA plays let alone the scale for abrasion resistance, I will have bought a beautiful tile that is destined to fail and I will be replacing it in a year. Hope I helped, my best, paddy

mdiamond 

Apr-26-2004 00:22

Thank you for the info. It's not that I don't like the answers I finding, I just want to use the ideal option to remove the haze. That's why your feedback is so helpful to homeowners such as myself. I'll give solvent stripper a try (as directed)- with a cloth, correct? Do you have any professional tricks to can tell us to get the best results? Will the solvent stripper do anything to the dark grout? If the stripper at doesn't work what would you suggest?

Dear MDIAMOND:

Yes, with a cloth. Allow the solvent to sit for a minute before wiping. Use clean white cloths. There are so many types of black pigment, it's hard to determine certainty of results. It should not have been left in the first place. It is designed NOT to be easily removed. The next step is sulfamic acid... you can buy the crystals at any building supply store or ceramic specialty tile supplier.

Betz 

Apr-25-2004 23:03

I bought a handpainted mural on tumbled marble. It's been sealed and is on mesh. Overall size is 38" x 15". I've read everything I can find on your site about installing tumbled marble, but don't see this problem addressed: I'm putting this behind my stove and the artist didn't fill the pits before painting. What do I do about filling the holes now without ruining the painting? They're everywhere, and would definitely "interrupt" the painting. Help!

Dear BETZ:

Sounds more like a tumbled travertine. You do know this is a ceramic tile site, not a natural stone site???? You could fill the holes with a clear acrylic....do a test patch and see if the acrylic does not again emulsify the paint. It will fill the holes if it has sufficient solids content and it can accept paint overtop of it.

Linda 

Apr-25-2004 22:46

We are remodeling our bathroom and I am wanting to use Marble in the shower, around the whirlpool tub and on the floor. I got concerned about using this when I read my bottle of Shower clean, it states not to be used on marble. What other precautions are there with using marble instead of tile in a shower and is it high maintenance? I have Rheumatoid arthritis so this is very important to me. Also, is it usually used on floor surface or is something else used? One more thing, is the marble they sell at Home Depot/Lowes real marble or cultured marble (around 2.99 for a 12x12), cant find anyone there that really knows.Thank you in advance.

Dear LINDA:

This is a ceramic tile site... ceramic tile is VASTLY better than marble for such an application. REALLY! I cannot recommend marble for your shower or floor, aside from issues of bad slipperiness, chemical resistance, wicking moisture, stain resistance...actually, the list is much longer for the benefits of ceramic tile, versus the negatives of marble in such an application.

Farah 

Apr-25-2004 21:36

I would like to replace my vinyl floor with ceramic tile. We have stripped the vinyl flooring to reveal plywood which will serve as the subfloor. there is a level discrepancy between the foyer and the kitchen. We poured leveling compound to even it out. We wondering if we can bypass the hardibacker step...and apply the ceramic tile to the leveling compund layer, directly. hope my question doesnt sound too naive. thanks for you help

Dear FARAH:

Yes, you can apply the tile directly to the leveling mortar. It should be cementitious and therefore very compatible to the cement mortar. Only caution would be the total thickness of the plywood sub-floor and therefore the rigidity or stiffness of the floor. Industry standard requires a minimum of 1 1/4" wood substrate under tile in order to achieve a minimum floor deflection of L/360. If you have less than this thickness you should read up on Schluter Ditra matt and see if this product which serves as a cleavage membrane between your tiling and the possible movement in your floor will provide a solution. See Schluter's banner at the top of this site. Also remember to build in a perimeter expansion joint. The floor to wall transition should be a 1/4" caulked joint to allow for movement in the floor system. paddy

Barbara Pagano 

Apr-25-2004 21:05

We have a pressure-treated wood deck. I would like to put tile on top of the rails - they're about 6" wide. Is this possible/what type products do I use for an outdoor installation. I would also like to tile our front porch/entry way, which is a 9' x 9' cement slab (pitched for drainage) and have the same questions about doing that, plus I don't want it to be slippery when wet.I've done all our indoor tile work.

Dear BARBARA PAGANO:

Yes, it is possible to tile the top of the rails using a two part mortar and acrylic additive. Note that exposed wood is subject to expansion and contraction and not the best backing for tile especially in your case because the side and bottom of the wood will be exposed. I would consider putting a waterproof membrane on the top side and encasing the tile in a schluter tile trim. This will help. The same mortar system should be used to tile the porch over cement slab. For non-slip you need a tile with an appropriate coefficient of friction or slip resistance. This will be a tile with low water absorption (equal to or below 3%) and a rough slate like texture and matt glaze, or a textured unglazed porcelain, or a glazed small format mosaic with a seeded or gritty surface, or a glazed extruded paver with a rough surface. Make sure to leave a caulked joint on the porch area wherever the floor transitions to an adjoining wall. paddy

bob 

Apr-25-2004 19:38

ok ,i want to make sure i put these walls upright around the tub. now two sides of the tub touch the wall and i would bring the cement board right down to the tub , but the other side there is about 1/2"gap to were i add some wood under the tub,nowdo ibring thecement board down to the to edge of the tub and run the tile to the bottom of the tub? Icansendpictures if anyone would like to see or havebeen throththis too thanks bob mrsearay@yahoo.com

Dear BOB:

Your descriptions have been odd. You use words like here, when you say "wood UNDER the tub"... don't you mean, furring behind the flange to make it the same as the other walls?

bob 

Apr-25-2004 15:27

were should the tolit flange be after the tile is on? should it bejust under the flang or even with the very top of the flange?

Dear BOB:

Both are acceptable.

mdiamond 

Apr-25-2004 13:56

Hey TileMan, Additional info. for 7008. It's porcelin tile & Ployblend sanded tile grout, Black. Now I'm even more confussed - grout haze remover, sulfamic acid, phosphoric acid, and stripper, have been added to maratic acid and viniger to try. PLEASE HELP - option overload is setting in!

Dear MDIAMOND:

No reason to ask, if you don't like the answers. DO NOT use harsh muriatic (hydrochloric) acid or Vinegar (acid)before attempting all else...solvent stipper being my first choice. If your porcelain is unglazed white porcelain, it is likely that the black pigment in the grout is embedded in the microscopic pores of the unglazed surface. This freckling is very difficult to remove. Call Aqua Mix (specialist in ceramic cleaners)and they will direct you to the proper fix or stripper. paddy